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Travelling through china but especially through the tibetan areas raises a lot of questions. During the ‘cultural revolution’ the Chinese did a thorough job in destroying temples, books, houses, etc. Whenever you enter a monastery nowadays you see that basically all big buildings are rebuilt and only minor shrines and temples might have survived these times. Interestingly, China released a huge amount of money to restore many of these buildings in recent years. Numbers of monks increase again and china praises itself for their great support of minorities. However, many high lamas get replaced by officially chinese – educated ones and the focus of the monasteries seems to be closer to a museum than to a spiritual place in many cases. I found this cancha in Yushu in the remote corner of Qinhai province very symbolic with each goal facing either Chinese or Tibetan characters. Nobody knows who will win the battle: the superpower that seems to be with endless resources or the little minority who has survived with only little foreign influence over centuries and who is capable of handling extremely harsh living conditions… Maybe they should just stop fighting and go for a little soccer-match……